Golf guide to East Lothian and Edinburgh

Just a few miles from the beautiful capital city of Scotland, Edinburgh, you will discover a paradise of links courses. East Lothian is often branded as ‘Scotland’s Golf Coast’, and it is hard to disagree when you consider what is on offer there. With an assortment of classic courses, championship venues and lesser-known gems all within a few miles of each other, it is a truly engrossing region for golf.

You will arguably find the highlight of the trip in Gullane, where one of the game’s truly great championship venues is situated. For many players and observers, Muirfield is the finest links on the Open Championship rotation. Home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, one of the oldest private clubs in the world, this Old Tom Morris design has played host to golf’s oldest and greatest championship on 16 occasions beginning in 1892.

Lacking the quirks and peculiarities of many links courses, it has often been described as the ‘fairest’ of the Open venues. Uniquely for a traditional seaside layout, Muirfield’s holes are arranged in two loops of nine holes (clockwise and anti-clockwise) which goes against the standard ‘out and in’ nines that you would see at somewhere the like the Old Course at St Andrews. Consequently, there is potentially a different wind direction on each tee. Making the challenge even more interesting.

Before continuing with the golfing side to East Lothian, it would be worth discussing the city of Edinburgh itself. Though it is difficult to capture in such a small space, you could literally dedicate a week to exploring the city and not even scratch the surface. ‘Auld Reekie’ (as it is classically nicknamed in Scotland) is unquestionably among the most beautiful, culturally significant, historically textured and vivid capitals in Europe.

The Royal Mile leading from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle is a hub of culture, history and (most importantly) people watching opportunities. The Castle, itself, overlooks the city, dominating the skyline and is certainly among the more recognizable landmarks in the United Kingdom.

With a solid and varied collection of holes, Dunbar is a thoroughly enjoyable course to play, and will set you up well for the challenges waiting on the other courses in the area. The town itself is very interesting – steeped in history – and it would be worthwhile visiting the ruins of Dunbar Castle, which was at one time among the most impressive fortifications in Britain.

Situated just along the road from Dunbar, if there was ever a course that could simply be described as ‘fun’, then it is the West Links at North Berwick. Unique, outlandish, but thrilling, it is unquestionably among the finest golfing experiences to be found in Scotland – not just East Lothian. It is also a hugely historic venue – believed to be the third oldest course in the world that is still played on its original fairways. Only the Old Courses of St Andrews and Musselburgh are older, and that sense of period certainly adds to the magic.

Renowned for its stunning views and excellent conditioning, playing Gullane No 1 is among the most underrated experiences to be had in Scotland. Uniquely for a links, there are a number of elevation changes throughout the course, all of which adds to the challenge and intrigue of the venue. Simply put, if you are looking for a solid course in a spectacular setting, then Gullane 1 is a must-play.

The same can certainly be said of the nearby Luffness New, which, despite the name, (rather like the New Course of St Andrews), is in reality about as 'new' as the Democratic Party. Both of these courses are a fine addition to any East Lothian itinerary, providing excellent value for money.